GENERAL
POSITION/SIZE/DESCRIPTION
St Elizabeth is in the south-western section of the island. It has an
area of 1212.4 square kilometres (468.1 square miles). There are three
mountain ranges - the Nassau Mountains to the north-east, the Santa Cruz
Mountains which, running south, divide the wide plain to end in a
precipitous drop of 1600 feet at Lovers' Leap, and the Lacovia Mountains
to the west of the Nassau Mountains.
The Black River is the main river supported by many tributaries
including Y.S., Broad, Grass and Horse Savannah. It is the longest river
in Jamaica {53.4 kilometres (33 0 miles)} and it is navigable for about 40
kilometres (25 miles). It has its source in the mountains of Manchester
near Coleyville where it rises and flows west as the boundary between
Manchester and Trelawny then goes underground near Troy. It reappears
briefly near Oxford and goes underground again for several miles to
reemerge near Balaclava and tumbles down gorges to the plain known as the
Savannah, through the Great Morass and to the sea at Black River, the
capital of the parish.
Because of the limestone formation there are 44 caves in the parish.
They include Mexico, the longest in the island. Yardley Chase Caves near
the foot of Lovers' Leap, Wallingford Caves near Balaclava, famous for the
fossil remains of large extinct rodents and Peru Cave near Goshen which
has impressive stalactites and stalagmites. Preservation areas and wetland
sites include:
- National
Park:
Cockpit Country
Lower Black River Morass
- Wetland
Sanctuary:
Luana Point Swamp
Lower Black River Morass
- Wildlife
Sanctuary:
Luana Font Hill
- Scientific/Nature
Reserves: Holland
Swamp Forest.
Much of the land in the parish is dry grassland called savannahs, marsh
and swamp, forests and scrub woodlands. The land is used mainly for
agriculture and the farmers here who produce a variety of crops are noted
for their skilful farm practices. Earlier the land was used to grow sugar
cane and for pasture. It still has one sugar factory on Appleton Estate
which is noted for its fine blends of rum. To the north of Appleton lies
the Cockpit Country which crosses into Trelawny.
Mineral deposits include bauxite, antimony, white limestone, clay, peat
and silica sand which is used to manufacture glass.
BRIEF HISTORY
It is believed the parish was named after the wife of Sir Thomas
Modyford, the first English Governor of Jamaica. It originally included
most of the south-west part of the island but in 1703 Westmoreland was
taken from it and in 1814 a part of Manchester.
The Tainos/Arawaks also lived in this part of the island. There is
evidence of their occupation in the cave at Pedro Bluff. When the
Spaniards came they established ranches on the savannahs. The walls and
wells they left are reminders of their presence.
When the English settled on the island after its capture from the
Spanish in 1655, they concentrated on planting sugar cane but the ranches
had been so well developed that the tradition continued. In some places
buildings with 'Spanish wall' (masonry of limestone sand and stone between
wooden frames) can still be seen. St Elizabeth became a prosperous parish
and Black River an important seaport. In addition to shipping sugar and
molasses Black River became the centre of the logging trade. Large
quantities of logwood were exported to Europe to make a Prussian-blue dye
which was very popular in the 18th and 19th centuries. Synthetic dyes have
now replaced natural dyes so although there are still large quantities of
logwood growing wild in some areas there is no longer any demand for it.
Today, however, it still supports the honey industry as honey made from
logwood blossoms is very popular.
Because of its prosperity electric power was first introduced in
Jamaica in a house called Waterloo in Black River in 1893. In 1903 the
first motor car to come to Jamaica was imported by the owner of Waterloo.
In those days the town had a horse-racing track, a gambling house and a
mineral spa for the well-to-do at the west end of the town.
St Elizabeth probably has the greatest racial mixture in Jamaica. When
the Miskito Indians came from Central America to help track the Maroons in
the 18th century they were given land grants in this parish. In the 18th
century too, Loyalists from the Carolinas settled in the Great Morass and
attempted to grow rice. In the 19th century Scots and Germans migrated to
the parish and this accounts for pockets of distinct racial mixtures in
the parish. However, in the 20th century there was steady emigration from
St Elizabeth and other parts of Jamaica to Panama, Costa Rica, Guatemala
and Cuba to work on railway construction and banana plantations.
With the closure of the port in Black River in 1968 the parish could
have become a backwater had bauxite not been discovered. More recently
efforts are being made to develop a different kind of tourism in which the
community is more involved and which can show off the many ecological
features of the parish. The parish lends itself to this kind of
development and the annual St Bess Homecoming is enticing its sons and
daughters to invest there. In addition to a strong farming base, craft is
also being revived and the future looks promising.
Munro College for boys and Hampton School for girls were established by
the Munro and Dickenson Trust in1856 and 1858 respectively. Several
secondary schools have been built in the last 50 years.
POPULATION: 148,900 (1999)
CAPITAL: Black River
MAJOR TOWNS: Santa Cruz, Malvern, Junction, Balaclava
MAJOR INDUSTRIES/SOURCES OF EMPLOYMENT
Sugar: This is one of the oldest industries in the parish. The
one remaining factory is the Appleton Estate which has given its name to
the fine blends of rum it produces.
Bauxite: When bauxite deposits were discovered in the parish,
Kaiser Bauxite company began mining in the early 1950s. Alpart started
mining and alumina manufacturing at Nain. This was closed in 1975 but the
mining of ore continues.
Fishing: River fishing is unequalled in Jamaica and sea fishing is
also very good. Middle Quarters is known as the Shrimp Capital of Jamaica.
Vendors sell pickled crayfish to passing motorists and the industry is
said to earn $3.000.000.00 a year.
Crafts: St Elizabeth is noted for its straw work - hats, bags,
baskets, mats, etc. Sisal and thatch are grown locally to support this.
Agriculture: This is the mainstay of the parish noted for its
watermelons, seasoning, tomatoes, onions, cassava, pineapples etc. It is
one of Jamaica's 'bread baskets'. Its farmers constantly work against
drought conditions in some places.
Food Processing: There is a food processing plant at Bull Savannah
for tomatoes, carrots and pineapples which are distributed under the brand
name Village Pride. There are pimento leaf oil factories at Giddy Hall.
Bogue and Braes River.
Tourism: St Elizabeth has significantly increased its room capacity
for tourists and is strongly pushing a tourism package with a difference -
community tourism which would include eco-tourism. There are indications
that over a half of the estimated 1,000,000 tourists who visit the island
each year over a half are interested in what the south coast has to offer.
Other industries: Glass, abrasives, Hodges Ceramic Supplies Ltd and
Silica mines.
MAJOR HISTORICAL/CULTURAL/RECREATIONAL/ECOLOGICAL SITES
The Great Morass: This is the island's largest wetland which has
an area of 125 square miles. The lower morass extends from the Black River
to Lacovia and the upper morass is above Lacovia. It is a complex
eco-system and a preserve for more than 100 bird species. It is a refuge
for about 300 crocodiles. Fed by the Black River the morass has plenty of
crayfish and fish including the God-a-me that can live out of water in mud
and moist leaf litter. Sometimes a manatee can be seen near the river
estuary. The morass provides a livelihood for the 'shrimp' sellers at
Middle Quarters. There is now evidence of pollution and the Black River
and Great Morass Environmental Defence Fund is attempting to have the area
declared a national park.
YS Falls: These falls are considered by many to be Jamaica's
most spectacular waterfalls. Eight cascades separated by pools ideal for
swimming fall for120 feet. Limestone cliffs and towering lush vegetation
enhance the scene. It is on private property but is open to the public for
a fee. There is a picnic ground and transportation to the falls. The
estate raises racehorses and Jamaica Red cattle
Bamboo Avenue: This two and a half mile 'avenue' of bamboos on
the main road between Lacovia and Middle Quarters was planted by the
owners of Holland Estate in the 17th century to provide shade in the heat
of the savannah. A former owner was John Gladstone, father of the famous
British prime minister. It was a sugar estate and the factory has only
recently been closed. Although battered by hurricanes and the occasional
fires it is still attractive. It is maintained by the staff of the Hope
Botanical Gardens in Kingston.
Font Hill Wildlife Sanctuary: The Petroleum Corporation of
Jamaica owns this 3150 acre wildlife reserve. It has two miles of
coastline. Scrubby acacia and logwood thickets cover much of the area.
Near to the coastline are interconnected lagoons and swamps. It is a haven
for birds. Eight endemic species can be seen there including the pea dove,
the white-bellied dove and the ground dove, the smallest dove in the
world. It used to be a cattle ranch earlier.
St John's Parish Church: Although a tablet on the tower notes
the laying of a foundation stone in 1837 it is believed that this yellow
brick church is much older. The church has a pair of monuments erected in
1828 to the memory of Robert Hugh Munro and his nephew Caleb Dickenson.
Munro bequeathed his estate in trust to his nephew and the church wardens
and their successors to form a free school for the poor children of the
parish. This bequest formed the Munro and Dickenson Trust which opened the
Munro and Dickenson Free School in Black River in 1856, fifty-nine years
after Munro's death and eventually Munro School for boys and Hampton
School for girls, the oldest public educational institutions in the
parish. The tombstones outside the west entrance are for Duncan Hook (1741
-1779) and his four children by a 'free mulatto' who lies beside him. He
had to have a special act of Assembly passed to give his mistress and
their children the same legal status as white people. Without it they
could not have been buried in the churchyard.
Lacovia Tombstones: At the junction of the Lacovia main road and
one of the roads to Maggoty lies two tombstones. On one is a large marble
slab with the inscription "To Thomas Jordan Spencer". The other
is unmarked. The story goes that a duel at a nearby tavern resulted in the
death of both men. The engraved coat of arms has been traced to Spencer of
Anthrop, an ancestor of the late Sir Winston Spencer Churchill of World
War 2 fame.
Appleton Estate: Tucked in the Siloah Valley between the Nassau
Mountains and the Cockpit Country lies Jamaica's oldest rum distillery on
the Appleton Estate. The rums bear the estate's name and have been
produced there since 1749. The estate is now owned by J.Wray & Nephew,
Jamaica's largest producers of rum.
Pondside Lake: This is the largest fresh water lake in the
island situated about six miles from Black River on the road to
Mountainside. It is officially known as the Wally Eash Pond. According to
legend this pond was once a district which, like the Yallahs Ponds in St
Thomas, mysteriously disappeared leaving a pond in its place. A man and
his dog left the district at night and as he was returning to the spot
where the house should be he stepped into water. The district had sunken
while he was away and he was the only one saved
Accompong: Situated on the south side of the Cockpit Country,
Accompong is the only remaining village in western Jamaica inhabited by
the descendants of the Maroons. It was reputedly named after the brother
of the great Maroon leader Cudjoe, and it was a common name among the Akan
speaking tribes of West Africa. The settlement was formed after the treaty
between the Maroons and the English in 1739. When the second war with the
English broke out in 1795, the Accompong Maroons remained neutral and were
left untroubled at the end of the war when all the other Maroon
settlements were destroyed. On the 6thof January each year a traditional
ceremony is held to commemorate the signing of the treaty with the English
in 1739 which gave them their freedom. Their head of government is the
Colonel who is elected by secret ballot every five years. He is assisted
by a council which he appoints. Most of the Maroons have gone to other
parts of Jamaica to live but they are still proud of their African
heritage.
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